Tuesday, April 23, 2024

Hierapolis and Hot Springs, Pamukkale, Turkey

Another ancient city and Unesco World Heritage site to visit today! The Hierapolis, with the adjacent Necropolis, is located on the Asian side of Turkey, also known as Anatolia or Asia Minor, near the town of Pamukkale. Hierapolis was a healing center, the nearby hot springs and white cascading pools (due to calcium carbonate deposits) were used for treatment, although most of the pools are dry now.
Early settlements dated as far back as the iron age, with occupation by Greek, Roman and Byzantine conquerors over the centuries. An overview of the history can be found here. We started the tour by going through the turnstiles at the entrance.
Once through, a paved road took us through the ruins of Hierapolis. The Necropolis (cemetery) section was further in, including the tomb of Philip the Apostle.
As we walked further, we could see the travertine hot springs with their iconic white calcite deposits and closer, pools of blue water. We have been warned by our tour manager not to expect the picturesque cascading pools that were on postcards of long ago, still published on travel magazines. Today there was very little water flowing naturally into the pools. Only a few pools still had water, and these were pumped in for visitors to ooh and aah over and for photo taking.
Visitors were allowed to wade into the nearby pools but we had to do so on bare feet. It was not easy walking on the uneven and sharp ground that was sometimes slippery. But it was an experience not to miss. I got close enough to the edge to take photos of what was left of the cascading pools, off limits to visitors. I gingerly walked over the sharp "corals" and dipped my feet into the pools that we were allowed to enter. The water was not hot, not even warm.
Most of us stayed only a short time at the pools, with our tour manager's reminder that if we go far down, we would have to trek back up barefoot. I was worried about cutting the bottom of my feet over the corals, wincing with each step. I think I lost a layer of skin at the soles by the time I was done. After putting on my sneakers, I walked over to the antique pool where we could swim actually swim. There was a story that Cleopatra had used this pool on her journey to Ephesus, but our tour manager did not think that was true. A few of our travel-mates changed into their swimsuits and went in, said the water was not hot, just tepid at most. I brought my swimwear and a towel but did not think it was worth the effort.
Instead, I had lunch with a group of fellow travelers in the cafe next to the pool. My chicken kebab was overpriced, tasted so-so; I fed a cat my leftovers. After lunch, I walked to the small archeological museum that displayed items excavated from the site, including some marble sarcophagi with intricate carvings.
Since there was time before we met the bus at the entrance, I took a few detours to view other parts of the ruins, noting the "pipes" that used to carry heated water to the baths, as well as the theater and the Sanctuary of Apollo.
We got back on the bus, and headed for the Mamar Antalya Hotel where we will spend the next two nights.

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